Petrichor Hood -- Free Crochet Pattern

I'm super excited to share the free crochet pattern for my Petrichor Hood today! I shared my thoughts about the Scheepjes Stonewashed* yarn I have used to make it here and revealed the hood to you here, but today is the day for you to get your hooks flying! It works up in just a few hours and has a lovely result.

I've also written up a tidy PDF for you, for a small fee, if you would prefer to have it without ads and in an easy to print version. You can find it in my Felted Button Shop here, my Etsy shop here or my LoveCrafts shop here.

As I mentioned before, the stitch pattern is a variation of a crossed dc, done by working into the crossed dc rather than the top of the stitch. I think it makes for a really pretty texture. And the neck ribbing is simple sl st crochet in the back loop only which makes for a knit-look, stretchy fabric that is super clean.

Of course, I had to add contrasting buttons. You might remember, I told you these red beauties came from my friend Jennifer Pionk of A Crocheted Simplicity as a gift last year, and I've been waiting for the perfect project for them. They are vintage buttons from one of Arnold Palmer's sweaters--and they have umbrellas on them which adds to the significance of the Petrichor Hood name which refers to the smell of rain. (I love that smell!)

I chose Scheepjes Stonewashed for my hood using just under 3 balls of Amazonite (#813) with a 4mm hook. The gauge is 18 dc X 5 rows = 4” (10cm) which you should check if you want your hood to be a good fit and make certain you have enough yarn. The hood required about 350yds (320m) total. I also used a teeny amount of the Red Jasper (#807) in the tassel for a contrast--and I think it would be cute to add some contrasting stitching at the top seam, too. If you want to get some Scheepjes Stonewashed, you can find it in these places--all with international shipping:

Wool Warehouse (UK)*
Deramores (UK)*
Knotty House (Canada)*
LoveKnitting (US)*

Oh, and don't forget the buttons. I used four 5/8" (16mm) buttons, which fit perfectly in the buttonholes.

I've rated the pattern as Easy since it's a fairly simple 2 row pattern repeat. A couple notes about the pattern:

• The hood is made by folding a long rectangle around the back of the head and seaming it across the top of the head. The neck ribbing with buttonholes is added after. Both parts are worked in rows, turning at the end of each row. Buttons are then attached. A tassel or pom pom can be added to the crown, if desired. I like my tassel. I added an extra color (Red Jasper) of the Stonewashed to tie in with my red buttons. But you can do as you choose. I hung my tassel by twisting two contrasting strands of yarn together for a little whimsy, too.

• When working the neck ribbing, it is suggested to work your slip stitches loosely and always turn your work in the same direction at the end of each row. This will make for a tidy bottom edge and stitches loose enough to allow you to easily work into them across each row.

• If you desire to alter the size of your hood, the length of the foundation ch adjusts the height of the hood on your head. The stitch pattern repeat is 3 + 1, so adjust your foundation chain by making it any multiple of 3 to the desired head height and then chaining 1 more. Adjust the size around the head by altering the number of repeat rows worked.

The dimensions of this hood will fit a tween to adult. It fits my 10 year old son's head well, besides fitting my daughter's (model above). My sample measures 14” (35.6cm) including ribbing to top of the head and 20" (51cm) from the front edge around the back of the head to the front edge.

These are the stitch abbreviations I used. Remember they are in US terms.

BLO	back loop only	sk	skip
ch	chain	sl st(s)	slip stitch(es)
dc	double crochet	st(s)	stitch(es)
rep	repeat	WS	wrong side
RS	right side	yo	yarn over

There are also a couple of special stitches I used. One is simply working into the back bump of the chain. It makes for a tidy edge around your face on the hood. Honestly, it's the only way I work into my chain--firmer and tidier. Here's how to work it if you haven't tried it before...

The above shows the front of the chain marked by the Vs normally worked when working into the top of a stitch.

The needle is inserted through the back bump on the wrong side of the chain. Notice these bumps run the length in a line. When you work into this bump, you leave both loops of the V on the right side edge. Tidier and firmer--I like that.

I also included one of my favorite techniques for replacing a ch 3 turning chain. I have never liked the way they look, and although I have several techniques I use to solve the pesky gap left on with a dc turning ch (here and here), I chose what I've called the "stacked sc" this time (#3 in the linked post). It is nearly the height of a regular dc, leaves no gap on the turn, and has a normal stitch top in which to work. I really like that.

Let me show you again...

When you reach the end of the row, turn your work. But don't work a ch 1 to raise your hook.

Just work a sc directly into the first st. Now notice the left leg loop marked by the black line. This is the loop you will work another sc into...

Just like this. It's a titch thicker than a regular dc, and tips a teensy bit, but once worked into on the next row, looks soooo much better than a ch 3 acting as a dc. So remember, a stacked sc in the pattern will count as a dc.

Now let's get on to making the hood:

Ch 49 (16 reps X 3 +1)

Row 1: working in the back bump across, dc in 5th ch from hook, dc in next ch, working over last 2 dc just worked, dc in 4th ch of starting ch, sk next ch, *dc in each of next 2 ch, working over last 2 dc just worked, d in skipped ch, sk next ch; rep from * across to within last ch, dc in last ch, turn (15 crossed dc)

Row 2 (RS): ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first dc, dc in next dc, *dc in crossed loop directly below bringing st up to height of working row, sk st behind last dc, dc in next 2; rep from * across placing last dc in top of turning ch, turn (15 dc in crossed-dc loops)

Row 3: ch 3 (counts as dc), sk first 2 dc, *dc in each of next 2 dc, working over last 2 dc, dc in last skipped st, sk next dc; rep from * across, dc in last st, turn (15 crossed dc)

Rep Rows 2-3 until piece measures 20” (51cm) high ending on Row 2 rep; do NOT fasten off, continue with seaming.

Seaming: Fold with WS together lining up top and bottom edges. Sl st loosely and evenly through both layers to the fold. Fasten off.

Neck Ribbing:

Row 1: join with sl st at left bottom corner edge, ch 16, sl st in back bump of second ch from hook and each ch across, join with sl st to edge of hood (does NOT count as st), turn (15 sl sts)

Row 2: sk joining sl st, sl st in BLO of each st across, turn (15 sl sts)

Row 3: ch 1 (does NOT count as st), sl st in BLO of each sl st across, join with sl st to edge of hood (does NOT count as st), turn (15 sl sts)

Rep Rows 2-3 until you reach the opposite edge of the hood ending with a Row 2 rep.

Work additional repeats of Tab Row beyond hood edge as follows until the collar tab reaches 3" (7.5cm):

Tab Row: ch 1 (does NOT count as st), sl st in BLO of each sl st across, turn (15 sl sts)

Note: I worked approximately 23 rows before working the buttonhole row.

Buttonhole Row:

ch 1 (does NOT count as st), sl st in BLO of first 3 sts, ch 2, sk 2, sl st in next 5 sts, ch 2, sk 2, sl st in last 3 sts, turn

Work Tab Row 6 times

Work Buttonhole Rows

Work Tab Row 4 times

Fasten off, weave in ends and block, as desired.

Sew the buttons to the neck ribbing so they align with the buttonholes. Here's where you can add a tassel or pom pom, if you wish, as well.

Ta-Dah! I hope you enjoy the pattern. It has not been through testing, so please let me know if you find any errors. And if you make one, I would love to see it in all its glory so feel free to share on my Facebook page here or in my Facebook group just for Felted Button hookers here.

| On the Board | -- I walk around like everything is fine, but deep down inside my shoe, my sock is sliding off.